NYFW Fall 2014 | Zhang Toi

Photo by Alex Shook

Created with flickr slideshow.

I remember the first time I saw Zhang Toi. I was at an event at Sotheby's– some kind of charity. It was more than ten years ago.

I had just moved to New York. It was such an incredible spectacle. I think I have a few fuzzy photos filed away somewhere.

 Zhang was dressed in a brilliant red ensemble and tucked away in the middle of an enormous entourage of models dressed, in what I can only assume, was his current collection.

He had long hair.

This was before the internet became our main source of archiving, so Google has turned up no results.

There was dragon robe embroidery and tassels– many, many tassels. They were arranged like a Vanity Fair spread.

I think he was, at that time, the most flamboyant person I'd ever seen.

I passed him recently on the street. He was scuttling down Madison Avenue near 50th street in his characteristic way. He was wearing the same uniform he always wears backstage before the shows, a Zhang Toi logo tee with shorts layered over some kind of legging and a pair of nondescript sneakers.

I had one of those moments where I thought: "I should say "hi.'"

It's funny how we see a public figure sometimes and we think we know them personally, just because we've seen them so much. I've been trailing Zhang for more than 10yrs now, watching the fashion press, covering shows backstage, and still I have never really introduced myself.

Season after season, Zhang Toi turns out immaculately detailed pieces that seem to transcend trend and time. Shanghai 1930 was no different. 

Hair and makeup took direct inspiration from the 1930's. Beauty teams backstage were helmed by Zhang's usual glam squad.

Faces by Rudy Miles were clean, lightly sculpted, with subtle shimmery gold lids and  punctuated with a bold ruby lip.

Nails by Zoya were a departure from a classic nail, utilizing the colors from their special collaboration with The House of Toi: Peony Princess (a brilliant jade green) and Art-Deco Goddess (a black diamond) to create two different looks. Depending on their garments models wore either a half-moon design utilizing the green and black or a special black on black glitter encrusted look developed only for the runway.

The beauty look was topped by immaculately laid finger waves designed by Eiji Yamane for Rene Furterer.  

Created with flickr slideshow.