NYFW FALL 2014 | Kaufman Franco

Photos by Alice An

Kaufman Franco Fall 2014 takes a glance back at the late 1990’s. The collection borrows heavily from Helmut Lang’s sharply tailored minimalist aesthetic and Tom Ford’s Gucci era, echoing his penchant for sleek lines broken subtly by sheer peek-a-boo insets. The beauty look followed suit, pulling color cues and referencing 90’s star muse Kate Moss.

Nails, lead by Gina Edwards for Morgan Taylor, were a simple bone-grey neutral tone, aptly named “Birthday Suit”. Just well groomed and polished with a few clean coats of polish.

Hair was simple in appearance, but in actuality, was meticulously designed by Peter Grey of Cutler Salon for Redken. Taking inspiration from the reductive, minimalist design of the 90’s, hair was pulled tight around the head into an extension-enhanced ponytail that blended with the model’s natural hair color. The length served as a counter balance to the tight head shape and ended in a bluntly cut straight edge. The finished look was adorned only with two carefully placed parts, which echoed the quiet dart-shaped cut-outs in the collection, and a sumo knot at the base of the ponytail.

Makeup, designed by Lead artist Kristi Matamoros for Kevyn Aucoin Beauty, was heavily eye-focused. Luminous skin and nudie-pink lips were punctuated with a tightly focused brown smokey eye. To create the look, Matamoros focused brown shadow primarily on the lids, feathering lightly outwards but not applying product to the brow bone. To intensify the look around the eye, lashes were coated generously with mascara and brushed gently to “fluff” them and eyes were tight-lined only in the waterline all the way around.

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